#HistoryNerd

PC Besties for life reunited in DC

Peace Corps’ friends are a different breed of friends. They start out as government issued friends. Over time and sometimes due to proximity, they become lifelines. Meet-ups in the local regional hub when you just can’t handle village life anymore–PC bestie is there. WhatsApp calls for speaking in English when the 8-hour time difference to the US means friends and family back home are always doing something else when I have free time. Additionally, no one quite understands Peace Corps life like other PCVs.

I think it was the universe talking when I got medically separated and my PC bestie also got medically separated–not quite at the same time, but pretty close together. So imagine my delight when our schedules lined up just perfectly for me to spend a few days in DC with him before heading back to ‘Rwanda’.

We explored various cultural eats… Mexican street tacos, Vietnamese pho, Laotian samplers, authentic Chinese, and American Brunch. So many noms that aren’t available in my tiny South Carolina hamlet are available everywhere in DC.

I, of course, did some touristy things and explored the popular spots such s the Lincoln Memorial

Hit up some of the FREE museums such as Smithsonian, the Botanical Garden, and a little known one of the National Parks and Forrest Service where I got to meet my hero, Smokey Bear and his side kick Woodsy Owl. I even got Smokey’s business card.

Next steps

I took care of some close of service and medical separation paperwork at the DC Peace Corps’ headquarters. On one hand, I’m *slightly* disappointed that my Peace Corps’ service ended early. However, I felt my time on site was largely ineffective. As my village’s 5th PC volunteer in 10 years, there wasn’t a lot for me to do. Mbazi’s 1st volunteer showed up in 2008. Several building projects later, PCVs (meaning me) were kind of looked as a walking bank account. I wrote a grant for the health center. The Ministry of Health funded that so that’s cool. But when comparing myself to schools and water pipelines, a penile circumcision grant wasn’t really all that special.

But alas, my PC service is over. My besties completed his service too so it’s time to figure out what’s next. But before all that, I’ll head to continental Europe in the form of Paris and London with my mom. We’re shipping out on February 26 and headed back on March 12. It’s her first time and I’m excited to show her some of the things I’ve seen in my last 10+ years of travel.

‘Shit-hole’ countries–where exactly is that

I am headed for a shit-hole… that is if one listens to the current president. This presents somewhat of a dilemma because why would one voluntarily give up life ‘in the best country in the world’ to go live and work in a ‘shit-hole’ country? Call me crazy I guess. Some of these countries are struggling right now. Some of them are facing poverty, famine, war, natural disasters, and political strife, but all of the countries on this list are home to citizens who deserve respect and who deserve to be treated without assumption, judgement, or insult. All of them are countries of origin of regular people who are trying their best – either in their home countries or as immigrants – to survive, work hard, contribute to society, and make their lives and the lives of their loved ones happier and healthier.

Of course, I’m not yet there, and of course, my opinion could align with the president, but from everything I’ve heard and read Madagascar is an amazing place with amazing people, incredible biodiversity, and I will truly be lucky to serve on the Great Red Island.

The Peace Corps has three goals, one of which is to promote friendship among Americans and the national of the countries they serve, and thanks to the president, he has made my job infinitely harder.

So, in alphabetical order, here are a few countries whose citizens do not come from shit-hole countries.

  • Afghanistan
  • *Albania
  • Algeria
  • Andorra
  • Angola
  • Antigua and Barbados
  • *Argentina
  • Armenia
  • Australia
  • Austria
  • Azerbaijan
  • The Bahamas
  • Bahrain
  • Bangladesh
  • Barbados
  • Belarus
  • Belgium
  • *Belize
  • Benin
  • Bhutan
  • *Bolivia
  • Bosnia and Herzegovina
  • *Brazil
  • Burundi
  • Brunei
  • Bulgaria
  • *Burkina Faso
  • Cabo Verde
  • Cambodia
  • Cameroon
  • Canada
  • *Central African Republic
  • *Chad
  • *Chile
  • *China
  • *Colombia
  • Comoros
  • *Costa Rica
  • Cote d’Ivorie
  • Crotia
  • Cuba
  • Cyprus
  • Czech Republic
  • Denmark
  • Djibouti
  • *Dominican Republic
  • Democratic Republic of Congo
  • Dominica
  • *Ecuador
  • Egypt
  • England
  • *El Salvador
  • Eritrea
  • Estonia
  • Ethiopia
  • Equatorial Guinea
  • Finland
  • France
  • *French Guiana
  • Fiji
  • Gabon
  • *The Gambia
  • *Georgia
  • Germany
  • Ghana
  • Greece
  • Grenada
  • *Guatemala
  • Guinea
  • *Guinea-Bissau
  • *Guyana
  • *Haiti
  • *Honduras
  • Hungary
  • Iceland
  • *India
  • *Indonesia
  • Ireland
  • Iran
  • Iraq
  • Israel
  • Italy
  • *Jamaica
  • Japan
  • *Jordan
  • *Kazakhstan
  • *Kenya
  • Kiribati
  • Kosovo
  • Kuwait
  • *Kyrgyzstan
  • Laos
  • Latvia
  • Lebanon
  • *Lesotho
  • Liberia
  • Libya
  • Liechtenstein
  • Lithuania
  • Luxomberg
  • Macedonia
  • *Madagascar
  • Malaysia
  • *Mali
  • *Malawi
  • The Maldives
  • Malta
  • Marshall Islands
  • Mauritania
  • Mauritius
  • *Mexico
  • Micronesia
  • Moldova
  • Monaco
  • *Mongolia
  • Montenegro
  • *Morocco
  • *Mozambique
  • *Namibia
  • Nauru
  • *Nepal
  • The Netherlands
  • New Zealand
  • *Nicaragua
  • Niger
  • Nigeria
  • North Korea
  • Northern Ireland
  • Norway
  • Oman
  • *Pakistan
  • Palau
  • Palestine
  • *Panama
  • Papua New Guinea
  • *Paraguay
  • *Peru
  • The Philippines
  • Poland
  • Portugal
  • Qatar
  • *Republic of the Congo
  • Romania
  • *Russia
  • *Rwanda
  • Samoa
  • San Marino
  • São Tomé and Príncipe
  • Saudi Arabia
  • Serbia
  • Sierra Leon
  • *Senegal
  • The Seychelles
  • Singapore
  • Slovakia
  • Slovenia
  • Solomon Islands
  • *Somalia
  • *South Africa
  • South Korea
  • South Sudan
  • Spain
  • Sri Lanka
  • St Kitt’s and Nevis
  • St Lucia
  • St Vincent and the Grenadines
  • *Sudan
  • *Suriname
  • *Swaziland
  • Sweden
  • Switzerland
  • Syria
  • Taiwan
  • *Tajikistan
  • *Tanzania
  • *Thailand
  • *Timor-Leste
  • Togo
  • Tonga
  • Trinidad and Tobago
  • *Tunisia
  • *Turkey
  • *Turkmenistan
  • Tuvalu
  • *Uganda
  • *Ukraine
  • United Arab Emirates
  • *Uruguay
  • *Uzbekistan
  • *Vanuatu
  • Vatican City State
  • *Venezuela
  • Vietnam
  • Yemen
  • *Zambia
  • *Zimbabwe

and last but certainly not least,

The United States of America

A different era

We Are the World written by Michael Jackson and Lionel Richie and sung by literally every well-known American singer in the 1980’s. Pop rock, heavy metal, country–all genres came together to help raise money for the famines in East Africa–particularly Ethiopia. It reminds me [I was a young child and have vague memories of singing this song in like kindergarten or 1st grade] of a time when we looked out for each other instead of calling them shit-hole countries.

No rain

As an introvert, I live a lot of my life in my head. And as an avowed #historynerd, I think a lot about the past. I think about how 21st me would fair in various time periods. Would I survive? Would I thrive? For example, 21st century me does not like human sacrifice. The weather fascinates 21st century me, but not so much that I want to control it. 21st century me knows that I nor anyone else can make it rain on command. 21st century me like to build things and garden, but in fact does not offer human sacrifices to the deities in order to get rain. Evidently, I would not last long in Mayan society. 

Did you know? I did my senior thesis project on Mayan Art and Architecture. In Spanish. So much of a #historynerd.

Large and in charge

Being in charge is no joke. Sometimes at work I’m forced into that position. I don’t like it, and it’s not a position I enjoy. It’s hard work being in charge. However, at least when I’m in charge I know there are things outside my control. Like admissions. Or orders. 

In ancient Mayan society, rulers were responsible for governance, organization, warfare, keeping the calendar… Oh, and CONTROLLING THE WEATHER. By claiming divine descent and direct communication with the gods, the ruling elite was able to justify its power and obtain necessities like food, clothing, shelter, and status symbols from lower social classes in exchange for divine protection. 

Long dead rulers, who were thought to be God-like themselves, continued ‘living’ in these amazingly intricate temples. Mayan offered ritualistic offerings to appeal to the gods.Mayas believed that their gods rewarded such sacrifices with blessings such as prosperity, fertility, and military success.

Lubaantun Ruins–Belize

The God of rain and lightening

One of the most insatiable deities was Chac, the god of rain and lightning. Chac is a snake-shaped being with a reptilian face, large round eyes, a down-pointing snout, and fangs. He carries a lightning axe. Chichen Itza is often thought to be acoustically designed so that feet climbing the steps would mimic the pitter-patter of rain drops and please Chac– who in turn would cause real rain drops to fall.  Not coincidentally, Chac is depicted all over the exterior of Chichen Itza.

 Hello there, Chaac

On the Yucatán Peninsula, rain wasn’t a guarantee, but it was absolutely necessary for survival; rulers were even known as supreme rainmakers in honor of their most important job. Rituals involved feasts, ceremonious smashing and burning of ceramic vessels, and even mass public bloodletting with stingray spines. Temples were also important divine pathways, and construction was often punctuated with rituals that left artifacts within the building’s structure itself.

No rain for YEARS

During droughts, however, regular rituals just didn’t cut it. During droughts, human sacrifice was a common practice. Young kids served as the sacrificees. Kids represent growth and development. Such things were needed for growing crops. On the Yucatan peninsula, archaeologists have recovered the hearts of young boys. Their hearts were ripped out of their body and thrown in the area cenotes. [Side note curiosity: How were hearts discovered? Who discovered them? Hearts do not contain bones, and water accelerated decomposition. Unless frozen. And it’s way too warm on the Yucatan to freeze.] In the southern highlands, priests dropped infants in cenotes and they drowned. 

Imagine being a Mayan parent. The elites select your kid for sacrifice. 21st century me can not get on board that train, but 800s meso-american me, I can see the value of sacrifice one for the good of all. In, fact, that’s a common historical occurrence that the selfishness of the 21st century seems to forget. But I digress. My kid for the survival of all of us. Ummm, OK, but Chaac, my harvest better be extra bountiful for the next few years, and I better be able to get pregnant again. 

The Crystal Maiden

A sacrificial human skeleton known as the Crystal Maiden was found in the dark zone of a cave and dated back to the ninth century, a dry and turbulent era for the Maya. The god Chaac lived at the bottom of caves, cenotes, and other dark places, with his pet serpents guarding the water. Archeologists discovered human remains dating from the Early Classic period at cave entrances. However as times got more difficult, priests ventured further and further in the caves. By the 8th and 9th centuries, Mayans have not seen predictable rain for many years. Times are increasingly more difficult, and priests advanced to the rear of the caves to offer sacrifices like the Crystal Maiden. Times were hard. Priests and the elite grew desperate to satisfy both Chaac and an angry populace.

Unfortunately for the elite, no rain came. Humans sacrificed increased in quantity and the community worked at a frantic pace to construct a new, more pleasing to Chaac temple. However, infighting increased. Kingdoms collapsed. The peasant class shifted blame to its rulers. Many elites were killed for failing to allow rain. The established social hierarchy deteriorated until the population collapsed. But it didn’t die out completely.

Modern Mayans still worship Chaac, sending offerings into the cenotes he dwells in. At least today, kids aren’t sacrificed. More importantly, beating hearts remain encased in bodies. And infants see their first birthdays.

 

Losing my religion in Vatican City

Hanging with popes at the Vatican

I once read that it would take ten years to view every item in the Vatican Museums. Even if I had 10 years to spare, I would not choose to spend them exploring ever inch of an art museum. So one day at the Vatican Museum it is. It was plenty. I probably spent more time exploring the architecture of St. Peter’s than the treasure troves of the Vatican Art Museum.

vatican sphere within a sphereVatican’s sphere within a sphere….

Catholic rules and things

I visited in early March. High temperatures reached a balmy 55F. Showing too much skin wasn’t a huge concern for me. However, keep this in mind if you decide to visit in the summer, this IS a religious site. Even if you aren’t Catholic or Christian, show respect. Additionally, the Vatican has a pretty strict dress cod. They also have the staff to enforce said rules in nearly every language under the sun. So no hats, shorts, bare knees, bare shoulders, ect.

So here’s the thing; I am Catholic, [not a shining example] but I am the only member of my family that is. I had a decidedly non-traditional childhood. The one thing my dad insisted on was that I ‘go to church’. So I picked the most exotic church I could find– Holy Spirit Catholic Church. It was [and still is] a tiny parish. I did not know a single soul that was Catholic. My dad refused to go in with me. And the parish had no idea what to do with a school aged child with no parents. But I regularly attended mass. While I didn’t have ‘parental permission’ to take the sacraments, I soldiered on. And while at my decidedly non-Catholic Christian College, I gave a big, double fingered fuck-you to my dad, and went and got baptized, confirmed, and confessed all at once. And just like that, I was an official Catholic.

So yeah…Vatican City, home to about 800 people including— yes, you guessed it—ole’ Benedict himself. As luck would have it, I was staying right outside the Vatican. Some people say stay in Central Rome; it’s where all the action is. To those people, I say staying near the Vatican is a much better idea. Less people, better gelato, and inn keepers who will get you tickets to the Wednesday papal address.

vatican-pope
See Benedict giving me the stink eye…it’s as if he knows I haven’t been to confession lately.
swiss guards
I bet these guys 1. hate dressing up like a medieval court jester. 2. constantly having cameras stuck in their face. Not only are these Swiss guard single, Catholic, Swiss army men, they also carry swords and SIGs. Both of which I am supremely jealous of .

Anyway, back to Vatican art…

There’s a statue of some Greeks.

Lacoon--Vatican

At first glance there is an angry energy to the statue. The father and his two sons writhe and twist in battle with two snakes. The agonized expression on the father’s face as he fights to save his children adds drama and pain to the scultpuree. And the quality of the work is breath-taking. The sculptor depicts the muscles and sinews of each of the three figures as they struggle with the serpents. I vaguely remember seeing a slide of this during art history. The Struggle. The Emotions. The Strength. And since I DO love history, I did a little digging on the history of this piece.

And what a history!

This statue linked to the founding of Rome, and to the renowned Latin writer Pliny the Elder. Who’s he? I’m glad you ask. Pliny was an amazing writer who died trying to escape the eruption of Mt Vesuvius that destroyed Pompeii and Herculaneum. And that’s not all. The statue’s story also intertwines with Michealangelo, the birth of the Vatican Museum, Raphaeal, William Blake, and even Emperor Napoleon! Impressive, no? Next to naked David in Florence, it was one of my favorite scupltures.

laocoon statue
Look at the expression on his face.

The Sistine Chapel

The amazing Sistine Chapel ceiling almost didn’t get painted. Michelangelo wanted to be seen as a sculptor [he did create David after all] and not a painter. He didn’t want to accept the commission for doing it, but Pope Julius II wasn’t an easy man to refuse. Julius was nothing, if not impatient. During one confrontation Michelangelo, Julius threatened to have him thrown off his scaffolding if he didn’t complete the work more quickly. On one occasion, the story goes, Julius asked when it would be finished. “When I can,” said Michelangelo, whereupon His Holiness began beating him with a stick. [Ahhhh, Catholicism…]

vatican-sistene ceilings

At *only* 498 years old, the ceiling is by far not the oldest attraction in Rome, but it may be the most famous. It took me two days to paint 144 sq ft of ceiling in one color. It took Michelangelo four years to paint 12,000 sq ft of ceiling in several scenes and colors. He wins.

Let’s face it, other than knowing that I was looking at the Sistine Chapel ceiling, I didn’t have a clue as to what I was looking at. An art snob, I am not. But that staircase. That thing was awesome.

vatican-stairs

Intentional or not, the staircase leading to [and from] the Vatican museums is an amazing work of art and engineering.