Elle

Invited to Serve

The Peace Corps’ sent my invitation to serve on July 27, 2017 via e-mail. I no longer obsessively checked my email like I did the first few weeks after my interview. I popped in randomly to check my email only to be disappointed by the lack of updates. My check-ins got further and further apart.

Which is why I almost missed my invitation to serve!

I sat down at my desk on a late Sunday night. I checked my email, thinking it would be full of spam yet again when I saw it…

Dear MICHELLE,

Congratulations! You have been selected to serve as a Peace Corps Volunteer, pending medical and legal clearance. This letter is your formal invitation to serve as Community Health Advisor in Madagascar departing February 25, 2018By accepting this invitation, you are taking the next step toward joining hundreds of thousands of Americans who have answered the call to service and made sustainable change in communities around the world. Here’s what you need to do within 3 calendar days:

  • Review all assigned materials. Please review the assignment-specific information sent to you via email previously, as well as the Peace Corps Volunteer handbook.
  • Respond to your invitation within three days: 

See that second bullet point–respond to your invitation. It was already Sunday, July 30th at 11:45pm. Did this really mean I only had 15 minutes remaining or my invitation would be rescinded? I wasn’t sure, but I wasn’t going to take any chances. But by my getting my invitation so late in the game, meant that I had absolutely no one to talk to about it. Except my coworkers. Who think I’m crazy for wanting to join the Peace Corps anyway.

Probably the worst photo ever taken of me but these were the co-workers I was with when I got the e-mail.

I make my best decisions when I don’t have time to overthink

Trusting my gut, I responded to the accept link in my invitation. And that was that. On August 2, PC inundated my email with the first of many of tasks. It’s a marathon, not a sprint. Set 1 involved going to the local police department and making fingerprints, PC used the fingerprint cards for the FBI and INTERPOL background checks. Step 2 involved applying for my PC (diplomatic) passport. [It’s really not that much different than a regular passport, but sound way cooler].

You see how ‘pending medical and legal clearance’ is bolded in the original offer? Medical clearance is no joke–and with only two months (60 days to be precise) to complete the tasks, it’s a race to complete on time. More on that to come later

 

Let’s try this again

It was just another Saturday afternoon. I was procrastinating with writing a paper in health policy. Tennessee vs Florida was playing in the background when I clicked on over to the Peace Corps website. I thought why the hell not?

It’s now or never, right?

I can already hear what you are saying…

“The Peace Corps? Really, but aren’t you’re already a nurse.”

Yes. Yes I am. I am already a nurse, but let’s rewind just a bit– Spring 2013.

I was all set to go to medical school only 35 minutes from where I was living. VCOM here I come. I was as ready as one can be to start medical school, and then, life, as it has a tendency to do, got in the way.

Without going into details, I withdrew my spot in the class of 2018. I looked at other options to pursue my goal of providing medical care. I enrolled in the local nursing school and graduated in August 2015. Immediately I signed up for and passed NCLEX, started to work on my BSN, and promptly got a job at a local hospital.

Which I hated.

To say I was stuck in a rut is an understatement. I started feeling lost and wasn’t sure what my next move would be; did I want to move? [Not really] Start a new job? [Probably, but I was more than burnt out after working in hospitals for the last 10 years. I could not fathom what I’d want to do]. Run off and travel for a year? [No, I’d already done that when I spent a little over a year traveling in South America]. I knew there was something else for me but I had no idea what it was.

I’m not sure exactly how the Peace Corps popped into my head, but once it did, it turned into a nagging thought that would not go away. Of course, I’d heard of the Peace Corps. I’ve even done international volunteer work before. I casually mentioned it to a few friends by saying “So if I joined the Peace Corps, would you come visit me?”

More time passed until that September Saturday where I was looking for motivation to write that paper. Upon finding none I looked into the revamped application process. I explored open programs and current PC countries. Health was an obvious choice, but I also opened up my application to other areas. What I know about community development can fit into a thimble, but I was willing to try.

So I applied. When it came time to pick countries, I wish there had been an option to exclude certain places. I was fairly open to most countries, but I knew, that the South Pacific Islands are not for me. Equally, I’d prefer to not go to Western Africa. I chose Kyrgyz Republic, Mozambique, or Guyana.

I’ve lived in a thatched hut in the middle of the Amazon with a compost toilet before. I have had my own apartment in places where electricity was sporadic. I know indoor plumbing, running water, and electricity are all things I could do without. At least for a predetermined time.

So it is now or never. I’ve only told one person that I’ve submitted the application. I have an interview Friday. We shall see how it goes. Stay tuned on how this new adventure shakes out.

I love this view

Update

On January 4, I had an interview for Peace Corps| Lesotho. I was less than enthusiastic about this interview for several reasons:  1. I do not want to go to Lesotho for several reasons. 2. The program was youth development. That was not one of my choices I put down as an interest and when I asked about that I was told the health and youth programs were combined. I was less than thrilled.

One of my reference writers didn’t get the reference in until 3 days before the deadline. I had just worked 16 hours the night before; my interview was at 8:30am, and I was most likely barely coherent.  It was a bad interview that ended after 50 minutes (I think most of them last 90 minutes) and it was to no one’s (meaning me) surprise, when on March 1, I got the email that said I had not be selected for Lesotho.

And I was relieved.

But not deterred. I submitted my application yet again mentioning health as my only choice and choosing Madagascar, Guyana, and  Ethiopia as choices and lo and behold, two days after submission, I was ‘under consideration’ for PC | Madagascar.  And I’m excited.  Of course,  it will be an eternity until I find out anything; the program stops accepting applications in July. I’m already doing things differently; I’m learning French. I’m learning more about Madagascar. And I’m excited. Let’s only hope that I am offered the chance to interview for this program.

These kids are happier I’m sticking around a little bit longer.

My one travel regret

I have made it a point in life to not regret the past. Sure there are things that I wish had not happened, but I also think that for better or worse, these life experiences have shaped me into the person that I am today. That being said, my one regret is that I didn’t study abroad when I was in college. It wasn’t as if I actively made the decision to not study abroad; my college, being a small (tiny even) liberal arts school did not have contracts in place with foreign universities.

chichen itza

Studying Mayan art and architecture in Mexico, Guatemala, and Honduras was most certainly interesting, but not all that practical

And also, let’s be honest. Even if they had had those agreements in place, most likely I would not have been able to afford it. It was all I could do to afford college to begin with. I worked full-time hours throughout my entire college career. Going abroad for a semester or a summer would have meant 3-4 months of no job and no income.  Putting that together with the added expense of being overseas and it just didn’t add up.

I did manage to travel while in college so it wasn’t as if I never left the country.  I turned a two week vacation into a three month tour of Northern England, Scotland, and Wales with a side of Ireland after my freshman year. While my friend were actually graduating college, I did an ‘independent study’ in Mexico AFTER I’d taken all my other classes needed to graduate thus delaying my official graduation for a year.

llanfair

I did make it to the town with the world’s longest name whilst wandering about Wales. Thankfully they just call it Llanfair.

I am quite certain that if I had studied abroad, my life would be 99.9% different than it is now–or maybe I would have arrived at the life I have now a lot sooner. I am quite certain that NOT studying abroad in college led me to take a ‘career break’ in 2010. And that ‘career break’ in 2010-11 led to me changing my career over the last 5 years. That career break also led to me choosing an elective where I got to spend time in both St Petersburg and Moscow (studying plants of all things) , Russia and Cardiff, Wales (studying the UK’s National Health System).  Both of those experiences, while amazing, was not the immersion experience I was looking for. And while travel nursing in the US is totally a thing; international travel nursing is not.

cardiff

At least I got to do a little exploring in and around Cardiff whilst working/studying at the Wales Hospital for Children.

All these experiences (and lack of experiences) has led me to the Peace Corps.  Peace Corps is not something I’d even strongly considered even though I had heard its existence while in middle school. I pondered joining after I graduated college, but there was always this reason or that reason holding me back. But it is something that has been nagging at me, sometimes gently, sometimes with a bit more force over the last 15 years.

So maybe not studying abroad in my initial college experience was a good thing; after all, it has brought me to the Peace Corps where I’ll finally have that immersion experience I have been craving since I was 12 years old.  Let’s hope I don’t regret joining at this stage of life.

 

Do you believe in fairies?

Do you believe in fairies?

When I was a little kid, I used to love to play make believe, and play in the creek behind my house. I’m sure that I wasn’t the only kid in the world who liked to play make-believe or play in creeks, but being as how I was an only child who lived out in the country far away from other kids, playing make-believe was a great source of entertainment for me. I loved to pretend that I was either invisible sea monster or a witch or better yet, an invisible sea monster-witch. Skye would have been a great place to grow up.

Swimming with fairies

Just imagine being an invisible fairy with eternal life and the power to enthrall people.. it’d make sense to live here, bewitching visitors to take off all their clothes [because now I’m a bawdy wench]. The spell of the Fairy Pools is that they look as if they must be warm…

I mean with that kind of vivid blue water it must be like the Caribbean Sea, but having come straight down from the Black Cuillins, they are anything but warm. The saying goes: temperatures in Scotland are either cold, bastard cold, or damn freezing cold. And checking in at a balmy 43F, I say these swimming holes are bastard cold.

Perhaps it is the fairy mischief that makes me want to jump into this amzing clear blue water. Water that is face-smackingly, lung-contractingly cold… wet-suit be damned… I jump in… ohmygod thisissofuckingcold… I clamber back out to catch my breath. Fairy magic… I haul my carcass out of the swimming hole, warm up, and dive in again and again. This is river swimming at its most magical.

Isle of Skye

The Isle of Skye is the largest of the Hebridean islands. It is easy to navigate, easily reached from the mainlaind village of Kyleakin, and has a huge variety of landscapes packed into a relatively small space. Scottish Gaelic is the predominate language of this part of the country , and in this area of around 10,000 people spread out over the islands, is raw wilderness.  Each sight is slightly more awe inspiring than the previous.

Leaving Skye, I passed probably the most famous castle in Scotland. In my less than humble opinion, Eilean Donan Castle is the most beautiful castle in Scotland.  It’s even movie famous. Chances are you recognize it from a film or two.  Eilean Donan starred in Highlander, served as Sean Connery’s home in Entrapment, and was the Scottish Headquarters of MI6 in The World Is Not Enough. Anything related to the world’s most famous spy has my stamp of approval.

Shout out to Rick Wakeman’s 1980s era song called Do you believe in fairies for this post’s title

Conversations from a bar

Every empty bottle is filled with stories.

Raise your glass

This is a conversation that occurred in a Colombia bar in August, 2010.

Colombia is a beautiful country. The Andes Mountains, the Amazon jungle, the Cocora valley are all amazing. In addition to the natural beauty, Colombia has beautiful people. Some of them are naturally beautiful and some of them–well, they have a little help.  The plastic surgeons in Colombia do a fantastic job. Medellin is my third stop in Colombia. It is kind of like Goldilocks and the 3 bears. The weather in Bogota was too cold. The weather in Leticia was too hot, but the weather in Medellin is just right. The days are warm and the nights are cool. It feels like fall [or spring].

Last night, I went out with some English/Australian guys that were staying in the same hostels [Funny story: We had actually met on the cable car that goes to the top of the city.] So at some point during the evening after an indeterminate number of drinks, in an unidentified bar, a conversation much like the following took place:

Guy 1:  “Are those real?” (referring to boobs, but not mine of course)
Me:  “Nope.  No way”.
Guy 2:  “Yeah.  I reckon. You can tell the difference.”
Guy 1: “Aha ha. I agree. Definite difference in shape.”
Me: “Yeah. But there’s no way that they could be real.
Guy 2: Compare hers (Colombian chic) to hers (mine). Definite extra perkiness. No offense” (referring to Colombian chic)
Guy 1: “I’m still not convinced. They’re too good to be real.”
Me: “Why don’t you just ask her?”
Guy 1: “Huh?”
Guy 2: “What?”
Me: “Just ask her”
Guy 1: “That would be funny.”
Me:  “Yeah. Go on. Or I will.”
Guy 2: “I don’t know.  That’s pretty random. Imagine if someone came up to you and…”
Me: “C’mon’.  It’s the only way to settle it. Fuck it. I’ll do it…”

Me and two guys in a bar

So somewhere, in the night, after an indeterminate number of drinks plus a few more, in the same unidentified bar, another conversation, much like the following, took place:

Guy 1: “What the fuck did you touch them for?”
Me: “She said I could.”
Guy 1: “And so you just grabbed them?”
Me: “Yep.”
Guy 2: “And?”
Me: “Real.”
Guy 1: “Definitely? Did she say so?”
Me: “Yep.”
Guy 2: “What did she say exactly?”
Me:  “They’re real. Good hmm?
Guy 2: “In English?”
Me: “In English.”
Guy 2: “Fuck off”

Me : You know, that’s the first time I’ve ever touched a pair of boobs other than my own…

Me and two guys in a bar

busty plastic girls
These are definitely fake

Conversations similar to the one above are, probably, not uncommon in Medellin. It is, apparently, the plastic surgery capital of the world in a country that is probably the most plastic surgerized in the world. Or at least close to.  Such a place has a significant reputation to live up to. However, Medellin does it with aplomb, cosmetic surgical intervention striking you anywhere you turn.  Seriously, fake boobs are everywhere. They are more normal than natural boobs.

  If you don’t have them, you’re the odd one out. Old woman have them. Girls far younger than the legal drinking age have them. Yes, I even saw a cat that had them (this may or may not be true… this may or not have occurred at the bar).  I read somewhere, but I now don’t recall where, that the prevalence of silicon in Medellin is largely due to Medellin’s former status as the center of the world cocaine trade. Don’t ask me why that means fake boobs all over the place – I guess drug lords liked them big.  In any event, the reality remains, and it is one scary, bouncy and far too perky reality.

packin fellas
The same can be said for the fellas

Fernando Botero

The theory attributing Medellin’s curvaceousness to the drug lords is a popular one.  However, my own personal theory is that the female of residents of Medellin are paying homage to the great Colombian artist, Fernando Botero.

Medellin born and Medellin raised, Botero’s sculptures dominate the public artistic landscape of central Medellin, his ludicrously proportioned, voluptuous and humorous bronze figures in the Plaza Botero in particular a highlight.  If you are not familiar with Botero’s work, I can probably sum it up for you in a single word – fat.  Not ‘ph’ fat. Just plain old ‘fat’.  Like everything being seen through one of those crazy mirrors that makes everything look fat. Not ‘ph’ fat.  Just plain old lazy bastard fat. Having viewed a reasonably large collection of his work in Bogota, it’s clear to me that his work is at its most impressive in sculpture – the central focus of his work, the roundedness aka ‘fat’, most effective and striking when experienced in three dimensions.  Fat. Not ‘ph’ fat.  Just good old ‘if it sits on you it’s going to hurt’ fat.

New Beginnings

[Future Michelle here, this is a recovered post from my previous blog, originally posted early 2010ish]

Blogging beginnings

In my very fist post–way back in 2004, I yapped about how life was getting as stale as a week-old baguette. [ETA: I must confess, that post has taken its final bow and has been deleted. But let’s not dwell on the past, shall we? Because right now, I’m about to spill the beans on that very topic, just above this sentence]. When I first dipped my toes into the mysterious world of blogging in 2004, it was my funky way of figuring out and spilling the tea on all things including life and death, love and loss, endings and beginnings, and all the curveballs that life kept hurling at my face. Back then, I had just flung myself into the real world after college, relocated to a shiny new city, and started my first gig in the healthcare field, where I was moonlighting as a superhero, saving tiny humans and battling monstrous illnesses. I coped with all these seismic shifts in my life by spilling my guts onto these pages. And going on wild adventures. Now, don’t get me wrong, I adore my job, but let’s be real, if I were to keep at it for the next 35 years, I’d probably go banana-pants bonkers. So here I am, conducting a full-blown examination of my life’s fancy blueprint. And guess what? Brace yourself, folks, because I’m mapping out my most epic escapade to date.

Life updates–part 1

Since my return from Italy, my travel and exploration game has been rather lackluster. I’ve been stuck in middle of North Carolina working and trying to figure out my next life steps. I’ve taken a few trips along the Carolina Coast and ventured up to the mountains a few times, but let’s be honest, nothing that could be labeled as epic. Oh, and to add some chaos to the mix, I decided to dive back into the academic abyss and pursue a degree in microbiology. As if that wasn’t enough, I joined the fencing team as a grad student, attempting to keep up with those energetic 18-20 year olds.

Lefty magic for the win!

Fast forward to 2008, I found myself back in South Carolina, where I unintentionally stumbled into a romantic entanglement with a guy from my old workplace. You know, just your average, run-of-the-mill routine stuff. But deep down, something felt off. Could it be that I never received the contentment gene that makes people blissfully happy with a “normal” life? As my thirties loom ahead, it seems I have no real desire to settle down. Not with the frantic pursuit of a medical career, not with the town I’m dwelling in, and if I’m being brutally honest, not even with the guy I’ve somehow landed myself into. What on earth is wrong with me? Ugh, the mysteries of life…

I must confess, I went a bit bonkers with the hair dye and my once-purple locks transformed into a fabulous shade of blue! As if that wasn’t enough, the scorching sun decided to join the party and made it even more vibrant. Who needs a rainbow when my hair can brighten up the whole town?

Life Updates–part 2

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Me–hanging out in the breakroom at work circa 2010? Maybe I’m even planning a trip right there

While opening up the blog to the public is one attempt to stave off the potential mid-life crisis, some may say I’m already in full-blown crisis mode. So, earlier this week, I happened to stumble upon a hidden treasure while surfing the vast ocean called the internet. What, you may ask? an amazing airline deal! Call me impulsive, but without even giving it a second thought, I plunged headfirst into the grand adventure. Lo and behold, I managed to snag a one-way ticket from Charlotte to Caracas, all for the unbelievable price of $99!

Now, let’s address the obvious questions. Have I ever been to Venezuela before? Absolutely not! Did I even have a burning desire to visit Venezuela? Not really. But hey, I studied their history in college and my high school Spanish teacher happened to hail from that very land. So, it’s fair to say that I’m at least equipped with some basic Spanish skills. Plus, I’ve always dreamt of witnessing the majestic Angel Falls with my own eyes. This seems like the perfect opportunity!

Now, you might be wondering: What else will I do in Venezuela? Well, that’s a mystery waiting to be unraveled. Where will I stay? Your guess is as good as mine. And the million-dollar question: Will I be kidnapped by narco-terrorists? Let’s hope not! As for the most pressing question of all—when will I come back? Frankly speaking, I haven’t got a clue. Perhaps I’ll end up hating the place and return within a week. Or maybe, just maybe, I’ll fall in love with Venezuela and concoct a plan to stay there forever. Only time will tell!


Not Angel Falls

But follow along and see how this little Venezuela adventure plays out.

Spoiler alert: My Venezuela viaje turned int a trip covering all 13 countries in South America over a period of 16 months August 2010-December 2011

I guess it could have been worse

I have just tried some computer updates and all my content from my blog has disappeared.

Inhale….Exhale…Keep everything in perspective…

 

I am on with live chat as I type.

10 Years! That’s how far content went back on Adventure Adikt. I hope it’s not gone forever.

Adventures through 50+ countries. Adventures in going back to school. Moving adventures (and more moving). Hiking adventures. Adventures with friends. Solo adventures.

I completely changed in the last 10 years. I hardly recognize that person who landed in Italy in early February 2006. She changed.

20-something Michelle celebrating a birthday in Rome

A lot. Hopefully for the better.

I’ve changed careers. Twice. I’ve traveled a lot more. I’ve loved. And lost.

I know more about ‘balance’. I think I’ve learned how to put things in perspective.

In my early 20’s, life was all about following some predetermined life path set up by society. I may have failed miserably on following the predictable path that went college—>marriage—->career—->house—->children, but I have definitely succeeded on following MY path. It went something like this college–>travel—>more college—>Career 1—>more college—->more travel—>even more travel–>more college—>Career 2—>more travel. I hope I can continue to learn and travel for the rest of my life. If I find love, that’s great, but I’m not counting on it.

I think I’m a better person than I was 10 years ago. I like to think that I am able to keep perspective in all areas of life. If I have to start over, well, there’s no time like the present.

I welcomed Kaos into my life almost immediately upon returning from my adventures in South America

______________________________________________________________________________________________

I lost my first blog of substance to the internet ghosts in July 2016. For a while I was undecided if I wanted to continue writing. After all, no one reads blogs any more. People are gravitating to social media like instagram and snapchat. People like short videos. I’m not sure a video of me will ever see the light of day. I’ve kept journals my entire life and when I started blogging on the internet in 2004 it seemed like an extension of that. Most people who read what I wrote I knew in real life. I never really thought about strangers caring what I had to say. And when they did, they were so nice. This was before internet trolls were huge, and keyboard warriors still hid in the basement and didn’t target blogs. The early 2000s were tumultuous, but I finally achieved a little stability when I moved to Durham and started a career in healthcare (pediatrics even). For the first time in my life, I felt free to make my own decisions and go where I wanted to go. My first stop was Italy and travel waxed and waned over the next 10 years, but I covered a lot of ground in North and South America and Europe. At the tail end of 2015, I began a new career as a registered nurse. 

I also started feeling life was stale. I changed careers because it was ugh. My long term partner and I were also ugh. I didn’t love where I lived, but didn’t know where else to go. Is this what they talk about when they say mid-life crisis. My friends were getting married and having kids and I wanted no part of that life. I did a lot of back and forth and really cemented the decision that no-I don’t want to have kids. It’s just not something I’ve ever thought about and now firmly ensconced in my 30’s, I’m comfortable with that decision. I don’t know that I will ever get the urge to settle down, get married, and establish roots. Maybe I’m just wired differently.

I decided to create this version of my blog because 6 months of no writing feels weird to me. I’ve been able to recover some random posts. I also kept a paper journal during the last 10 years so I can recreated some of my past posts–especially travel related ones. I took a class in creative non fiction and while to stay true to the CNF genre, one is supposed to write about factual events. I created a fictional character based on an amalgam of several people and followed her life for a few years. It’s realistic enough that it could be mistaken for truth. All this to say, I still like writing, and taking pictures, and traveling. And meeting people. And I don’t like the predictability of ‘regular life.’

I mean, do you? Africa is pretty big so we’d have to narrow down exactly where to go, but I am pretty sure I could probably make it happen by Friday

Semmelweis the scientist

Medical Museums

First up in my orgy of medical museums and such is the Semmelweis Museum in Budapest, Hungary. I feel bad for Semmelweis. He made a major medical discovery, yet couldn’t explain it, so all his colleagues mocked him mercilessly, and then he died… a broken man. Only to have his discovery proven right a few short years later. He is one of the reasons we do a 2-minute scrub prior to entering surgical delivery rooms.

Here it is: my ode to Semmelweis and his discovery of germs…

I wrote a poem

It’s a tiny little thing; it’s hardly ever seen.

But once inside, it can turn you  green.

Germs are many; treatments are few

For many years no one knew

What they were or their effects

Sickness was caused by air or a hex

Then Semmelweis figured it out

“Wash your hands” he wanted to shout.

But no one listened; no one cared

And no one cared how patients fared

A crusade against the little beasts he undertook

He gave speeches; he wrote a book

When he died he was outcast

But twenty years later, a hero he was–at last

Today entire classes are taught how to wash their hands

To wash away beasts tinier than a grain of sand

Semmelweis is the hero; he’s the man

Except to the microbes; talk of him in banned

semmelweis museum
Semme;weis’ father’s apothacary shop

a little bit of history

Semmelweis was a Hungarian doctor teaching medicine in Vienna. He noticed that the [male medical] students moved between the dissection room and the delivery room without washing their hands and their patients had a death rate of over 30%. [Oh, the infection control police at the hospital would be horrified] while the midwives’ patients, who didn’t do dissections, had a death rate of only about 2%. On a hunch, he set up a policy.  Effective immediately, doctors must wash their hands in a chlorine solution when they leave the cadavers.  Mortality from puerperal fever [aka childbirth fever] promptly drops to three percent and further drops to 1% after physicians began cleaning instruments in the same solution they washed their hands.

semmelweis museum 4
The museum is also a medical history museum

Now here’s the part of the story where things grow strange. Instead of reporting his success at a meeting, Semmelweis tells his boss, but his boss orders him to ‘stand down’. Semmelweis says nothing. Finally, a friend publishes two papers on the method. By now, Semmelweis has started washing medical instruments as well as hands.

semmelweis museum 6

The hospital director feels his leadership has been criticized [by Semmelweis]. He’s furious. Livid. Beyond angry. He blocks Semmelweis’s promotion. The situation gets worse. Viennese doctors turn on this Hungarian immigrant. They run him out of town. Finally, he goes back  home to Budapest.  He is an outcast among the “civilized” Austrian medical community. He brings his hand washing methods to a far more primitive hospital, and cuts death by puerperal fever to less than one percent. And he systematically isolates causes of death. He autopsies victims. He sets up control groups, and studies statistics. His has it all figured out.

semmelweis museum 2
Requisite skull with a hole in it

Finally, in 1861, he writes a book on his methods. The establishment gives it poor reviews. Semmelweis grows angry and polemical. He hurts his own cause with rage and frustration. He calls his colleagues idiots and ignoramuses. Semmelweis bashes their stupidity. He turned every conversation to the topic of child-bed fever.

The beginning of the end

After a number of unfavorable foreign reviews of his 1861 book, Semmelweis lashed out against his critics in a series of Open Letters.  They were addressed to various prominent European obstetricians, including Spath, Scanzonia, Siebold, and to “all obstetricians”. They were full of bitterness, desperation, and fury and were “highly polemical and superlatively offensive” at times denouncing his critics as irresponsible murderers.  He also called upon Siebold to arrange a meeting of German obstetricians somewhere in Germany to provide a forum for discussions on puerperal fever where he would stay “until all have been converted to his theory.”

By mid-1865, his public behavior became irritating and embarrassing to his associates. He also began to drink heavily; he spent progressively more time away from his family, sometimes in the company of prostitutes.  His wife noticed changes in his sexual behavior. On July 13, 1865 the Semmelweis family visited friends, and during the visit Semmelweis’s behavior seemed particularly inappropriate.  

Later in 1865 he suffers a mental breakdown. Friends commit him to a mental institution. Semmelweis surmised what was happening and tried to leave. He was severely beaten by several guards.  He was put in straitjacket and confined to a darkened cell. Apart from the straitjacket, treatments at the mental institution included dousing with cold water and administering castor oil. He died after two weeks, on August 13, 1865, aged 47, from a  gangrenous  wound caused by the beating. His autopsy revealed extensive internal injuries, the cause of death  pyemia–the very thing he spent his life trying to eradicate.

semmelweis museum 3

The end

Semmelweis was buried in Vienna on August 15, 1865. Only a few people attended the service. Brief announcements of his death appeared in a few medical periodicals in Vienna and Budapest. Although the rules of the Hungarian Association of Physicians and Natural Scientists specified that a commemorative address be delivered in honor of a member who had died in the preceding year, there was no address for Semmelweis; his death was never even mentioned.

semmelweis museum 5
A memorial to Semmelweis, savior of women and children

That same year Joseph Lister [the person whom Listerine is named after] begins spraying a carbolic acid solution during surgery to kill germs. In the end, it’s Lister who gives our unhappy hero his due. He says, “Without Semmelweis, my achievements would be nothing.”

semmelweis museum 8
The anatomical Venus made of wax… see I do see art from time to time

PS:  I don’t write poetry often; there is probably a reason for that.

Getting away from it all

I’d rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on Earth.                                                                                                      Steve McQueen

I have always been an independent sort. As I kid, I often ‘ran away from home’. Often. I never went  very far –usually exploring the outer reaches of our 25 acres. Many times, I had my school backpack and stuffed it with a sleeping bag, snacks and a book and had a good day.  Summers were great as I often set up a tent somewhere on the property and was ‘away’ for a few days at a time.   A couple of times, I  built a little raft a floated it on the creek pretending to be Tom Sawyer. As a child, my fondest wish to be a boy scout. Our town didn’t have a girl scouts, but that didn’t stop me from checking out books in the library on ‘wilderness survival’.  I taught myself cool things like how to build a fire, how to set up a tent, and how not to get attacked by bears.

Up until my mid 20’s I considered myself to be pretty outdoorsy, enjoying to spend as much time outside and under the sun as possible, hiking, biking, communicating with nature and all that crap. But somewhere along the line, things changed. It’s hard to put a finger on exactly when this happen, but I think it had something to do with getting my first big girl job. Working 6 days a week with minimal vacation time sucked the life out of my soul, and after about 2 years, I couldn’t do it anymore. It had been 2 years since I’d had a vacation so just after my two year work-anniversary, I took off to the North Carolina’s Outer Banks.

The Outer Banks is awesome. The northern half where Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is by far the more popular part of the Outer Banks. Ocracoke Lighthouse is gleaming white. It was built in 1823, the second oldest still in use in the nation. It’s not a tall as Hatteras or as famous but nevertheless it is an awesome site!

Ocracoke Island sits 23 miles off the North Carolina coast and a quarter mile south of Hatteras Island. It usually measures 17 miles long and a mile wide. The deserted, windblown beaches of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore make up the northern 90 percent of the island, and a small village of hotels, restaurants, shops, homes makes up the southern 10 percent. It’s a great place to get away from it all.

Going to the Outer Banks helped me re-assess my priorities in life. Did I want a life of relative security and stability? Did I want a life where taking a vacation was more of a headache than a means of relaxation? Hell no. I didn’t want that when I started, and after two years I didn’t like where that life was leading. Subconsciously I guess I realized how unhappy I was with my life, and deep down I was yearning to get back to my childhood roots, and to the last time I was really happy with life. I needed to get dirty, sleep under the stars again, and paddle about around on a body of water on a regular basis.

And where did I have this profound, existential realization? In a tent, under the stars off the coast of North Carolina in an area where the one of the most infamous pirates in history roamed.

I sure know how to pick my moments.

There is something incredibly cliche, but true about laying out under the stars, way out in the middle of nowhere, hearing waves crash on the shore that triggers some scary deep thoughts, right? Right? Please say this is not just me.

Seeing the sun rise over the ocean…

watching dolphins play in the ocean…

observing patterns in the sand…

These were the kinds of moments I had been missing over the past few years. Taking a step back away from all the craziness, all the rush, all of the stress that is involved with chasing the “American Dream” and realizing that simple, peaceful quiet moments abroad are often the most meaningful and profound. I exited the rat race at that moment [even thought it still took a while to start chasing MY American Dream].


It’s been 8 years since I’ve had that revelation. In that time I’ve traveled to more than 40 countries. I’ve had short adventures and long ones. I’ve become a registered nurse. I’m on my way to becoming a nurse practitioner. As I paddled around and explored the barrier islands off South Carolina’s coast, I felt the stress of the last few weeks melt away. I was light years removed from the stress of the last few weeks. With each stroke of my kayak, I felt so far removed from the hustle and bustle of life, I could feel a smile creep on my face for the first time in a while.

This was my kind of travel.

And I need to do it way more often.

For the love of the game?

The outlook wasn’t brilliant for the Mudville nine that day;
the score stood four to two, with but one inning more to play.
And then when Cooney died at first, and Barrows did the same,
a sickly silence fell upon the patrons of the game.

A straggling few got up to go in deep despair. The rest
clung to that hope which springs eternal in the human breast;
they thought, if only Casey could get but a whack at that –
they’d put up even money, now, with Casey at the bat.

But Flynn preceded Casey, as did also Jimmy Blake,
and the former was a lulu and the latter was a cake,
so upon that stricken multitude grim melancholy sat,
for there seemed but little chance of Casey’s getting to the bat.

But Flynn let drive a single, to the wonderment of all,
and Blake, the much despised, tore the cover off the ball;
and when the dust had lifted, and the men saw what had occurred,
there was Jimmy safe at second and Flynn a-hugging third.

Then from five thousand throats and more there rose a lusty yell;
it rumbled through the valley, it rattled in the dell;
it knocked upon the mountain and recoiled upon the flat,
for Casey, mighty Casey, was advancing to the bat.

There was ease in Casey’s manner as he stepped into his place;
there was pride in Casey’s bearing and a smile on Casey’s face.
And when, responding to the cheers, he lightly doffed his hat,
no stranger in the crowd could doubt ’twas Casey at the bat.

Ten thousand eyes were on him as he rubbed his hands with dirt;
five thousand tongues applauded when he wiped them on his shirt.
Then while the writhing pitcher ground the ball into his hip,
defiance gleamed in Casey’s eye, a sneer curled Casey’s lip.

And now the leather-covered sphere came hurtling through the air,
and Casey stood a-watching it in haughty grandeur there.
Close by the sturdy batsman the ball unheeded sped—
“That ain’t my style,” said Casey. “Strike one,” the umpire said.

From the benches, black with people, there went up a muffled roar,
like the beating of the storm-waves on a stern and distant shore.
“Kill him! Kill the umpire!” shouted someone on the stand;
and it’s likely they’d have killed him had not Casey raised his hand.

With a smile of Christian charity great Casey’s visage shone;
he stilled the rising tumult; he bade the game go on;
he signaled to the pitcher, and once more the spheroid flew;
but Casey still ignored it, and the umpire said: “Strike two.”

“Fraud!” cried the maddened thousands, and Echo answered fraud;
but one scornful look from Casey and the audience was awed.
They saw his face grow stern and cold, they saw his muscles strain,
and they knew that Casey wouldn’t let that ball go by again.

The sneer is gone from Casey’s lip, his teeth are clenched in hate;
he pounds with cruel violence his bat upon the plate.
And now the pitcher holds the ball, and now he lets it go,
and now the air is shattered by the force of Casey’s blow.

Oh, somewhere in this favored land the sun is shining bright;
the band is playing somewhere, and somewhere hearts are light,
and somewhere men are laughing, and somewhere children shout;
but there is no joy in Mudville—mighty Casey has struck out.

I started playing in a coaches’ pitch baseball league at the tender age of 7. Not girls’ softball. Baseball. And I continued into our town’s version of little league at age 9. It was the first time I remember overt sexism.

“I will not have that little girl on my team,” I remember the coach saying to my dad.

“Why not? She’s just as good as some of the other 9 year olds.”

Two fully fledged, adult grown men were arguing about me. About whether or nor I was ‘good enough’ to play baseball. Not softball like all the other girls. Baseball. Mentally, I just recited the poem about baseball I’d recently learned– Casey at the bat

To make his point my coach played me at catcher one day in practice, and told me if I let one ball pass, I would ride the bench the whole season. To my credit, and I suppose the credit of my dad and baseball loving cousins., nothing got past me. I may not have caught them all, but nothing got past me. Much to the dismay of my coach. And his son. The pitcher. Just as proud of me as my dad was, his dad was disappointed in him. “That he couldn’t even get the ball past a girl,” I overheard as I saw him smack my teammate in the back of the head.

Summer 2001–Baseball Dreams

When I proposed the summer ‘Field of Dreams’ tour, I’m quite sure I didn’t know what I was getting myself into. How could I? I think the last conversation I had with my day that didn’t end in doors slamming was about my little league catching strategy At 9, I craved his advice. At 14, I told him if I wanted his advice, I’d ask for it, and very little words passed between us after that. And by 19, we hardly spoke.

When I first proposed the tour, it was like “blah blah blah, work…” to which I responded “FINE.!” And as everyone knows, any argument ending in FINE, is most definitely NOT FINE.

A few weeks later

“I guess we can go in August. Especially if you aren’t in school.” I did not fall for the bait. “OK. I’ll start looking at schedules.”

It was still early enough that I could take a full summer course load and take off the Fall semester. After all, I had no idea what direction I was headed in so did it really matter that I was delaying it?

I planned an equal mix of  American League and National League venues. I’m an American League girl {Baltimore Orioles, in case you’re curious] while my dad was an OG Brooklyn/LA Dodgers fan. How two people from the southeast United States ended up as fans of said baseball teams is a story for another day.

  • Stop 1: St Louis Cardinals. {National League]
  • Stop 2: 2 for 1 of Chicago White Sox [AL] and Chicago Cubs {NL] [The Cubs were the only team that both my dad and I liked]
  • Stop 3: Cincinnati Reds [NL]
  • Stop 4: Cleveland Indians [AL]
  • Stop 5: Detroit Tigers [AL]
  • Stop 6: Toronto Blue Jays [AL]
  • Stop 7: Montreal Expos {NL]
  • Stop 8: Boston Red Sox [AL]
  • Stop 9: New York Mets [Another of my dad’s favorites] [NL]
  • Stop 10: Philadelphia Phillies [NL]
  • Stop 11: Baltimore Orioles [the holy grail for me, but they are still the Orioles and I was treated to not one but two losses] [AL]

3000-ish miles, 35 days, 13 games, 12 stadiums, 8 hot dogs, It’s a miracle we both survived